YOUR SANDAHARR BOERBOEL PUPPY:
Rather than fill the website with hundreds of photos we have opted instead to do a musical video file of the pups we have bred and owned which you will find the link for on our VIDEO GALLERY page.
You will find on this page our SANDAHARR PUPPY PACK containing lots of information that new puppy owners may find helpful.It is on here so that you can read this before you bring your new puppy home as you won't have time when your new baby arrives.Please remember,we only write on here what has worked for us.
You are the proud owner of a Sandaharr puppy and it’s now your job to continue the programme for your puppy that we have already started. It won’t always be easy or fun but it will ultimately be rewarding. Please remember that we are always just a phone call away for any advice or help needed, 07516894980
FEEDING: All the puppies that leave us have been fed on Dr. John’s Puppy meal soaked as puppy porridge from approx 2 ½ wks until 6 weeks, then onto Dr. John’s Platinum food, lightly soaked at first and then fed almost dry but always mixed with a little tripe,raw red beef,mince or chicken.The pups have also been getting bones already. We always feed our adults on raised bowls as early as possible as we always have a fear of bloat in our adults and this helps counteract the possibility of this condition.( Bloat occurs where the dog is gulping in air at same time as it is feeding, so if food is low on ground, or dog is panting, they will have to gulp it up, which takes in the air, this is a potentially life threatening condition if not caught immediately). Always have plenty of fresh water available, again from a raised bowl or bucket. As your puppy gets bigger please remember that you will have to increase its feeding but it is now important to get the balance right between just enough and too much, as overfeeding may cause puppy to grow too quickly putting stress on joints and muscles. You also have to decide at an early age if you are going to free feed your dog (leaving food out for it) or feed at certain
times. Both ways have their benefits, free feeding is ideal if you only have one dog, no food fights with another dog, but we feel it does tend to make the dog picky and it is unhygienic. We advise feeding at certain times, as a young puppy up to 7 weeks we feed 4 times per day. After that we split food into 3 feeds, breakfast, lunch and dinner. Until your puppy is 4mths old we think this should continue. After that we split lunch amount into the morning and evening meals.
All our adults are still fed 2 meals per day, we feel it is too much in one sitting for the dogs and will always continue this method and advise you to do so.Our older pups and young adults are on Dr.Johns Gold which has 20% protein,which they went onto at only 20 weeks old.Some are on Silver as they are mature,fully grown adults and have no need for a high protein level. Please be aware that it seems to be that the Boerboel cannot tolerate a high soya protein diet so it may be trial and error to find the right balance and food, we have experienced this with our Boerboels, in particular an allergy to Soya protein or oils.We find they do well on animal fats and protein,from tripe and raw chicken for example. Feeding at certain times also keeps your dog in a routine which we also feel is as important to the dogs as it is to us in our lifestyle. Never feed directly before or after exercise, please allow an hour to pass if you have exercised dog hard and at least a half hour if it’s just had light exercise. Again this helps against bloat. We feed a small amount of complete dry meal with raw chicken backs(tripe for the pups) and /or minced tripe,raw liver,heart or kidney with a splash of hot water.The only supplements we add is cod liver oil once per week and if we feel pups are growing quickly we supplement with a Glucosamine and Chondroiton tablet (500gm) daily in their dinner, until growth spurt is over.A good rule of thumb is that you should be able to just see the outline of the last couple of ribs.PLEASE NEVER FEED YOUR PUPPY GIANT BREED PUPPY FOOD!!!!!WE don’t recommend any dog foods with over 25% protein levels as it seems to make this breed grow too quickly and while the bones grow long the tendons and ligaments can’t keep up and you may encounter problems with the growth then.Please try and grow your puppy slowly,never have it overweight,always make sure your puppy has a ‘waist’!!
JJ suffered from extreme growing pains as a puppy,bad enough to require an MRI to investigate it all so please be aware that this may happen to your puppy too and while it is distressing to watch it is a self limiting condition.WE have also seen a pup with what can only be called ‘Jelly Legs’ where they have no means of supporting themselves and again this is down to growth patterns,that one was baffling to the vets but with perseverance,liquid calcium and no panic it soon righted itself and she turned out to be a great big,strong bitch.
Your puppy is being fed 1 cup of meal three/four times per day with a good spoonful of tripe or mince or raw red beef.
Do NOT give cooked chicken bones ONLY RAW!!!
Your puppy also loves carrot sticks and apple chunks, this also helps keep them quiet for 5 mins if you want peace and is soothing on their gums as the teething starts.An ideal book about BARF is by Ian Billinghurst,’Grow your pups with bones’,all about raw feeding.There are others too by the same author,they are well worth a look.The pups have also been fed plain boiled rice and pasta,so are used to this too.
Puppies do not need exercised as such, a run around the garden is plenty for young puppies up to 10 weeks. After 10 weeks when your puppy has had its final jag you will of course be desperate to get you puppy out and about and to socialise and show it off. Please be cautious on how much you are exercising your pup, they do tire very easily and you will harm their joints and muscles, possibly damaging them so much that they cannot function properly as an adult. You must help to build confidence and to instill manners in your puppy. As puppies get older we take them to the nearest town and sit at roadside watching the traffic go by and letting everybody come up and speak to and pet them. As your puppy gets older increase the exercise gradually. Don’t allow jumping up and down on stairs and if you do allow your dog on the furniture always place cushions below it on floor so when they come off they are doing it in stages.We allow our dogs a free run in an enclosed field where they all run together, please remember that if you have older dogs out with your puppy they will knock it over and possibly hurt it, so be watchful of any bullying, to be on the safe side let your puppy/young dog run free on it’s own and leash it when the others are off. Please be aware and learn from our experience that some Boerboels will stalk and charge their playmate sometimes resulting in costly accidents,mainly a cruciate ligament injury,something we have seen in our own lot unfortunately particularly when Razzy stalked a mature male Akita and cracked his ribs and bust her cruciate as she knocked him flat. Boerboels are very active and extremely agile, if possible take your dog swimming at an early age, it is great for their muscles and they will learn to love the water. When your dogs are around 9mths -14mths don’t over exercise, it is easy to say you won’t, but a 45 min run takes a lot out of them as they can cover a vast amount of ground at high speeds and always full of twists and turns. As your dog matures you will find that your dog can take or leave exercise. They absolutely love going out for a free run or a long hike but are just as happy lounging around. When walking your dog please do not use a full choke chain and only use a pronged collar if you are having trouble with the strength of the dog, if you train your dog from a young age it will walk by your side with only an occasional pull needing corrected. We would advise a half check collar for your dog with a training lead which can go to various lengths for your different needs, ie, town walking-short or in the park-medium to long. A lot of people have asked about agility, yes it can be great, but remember the age of the dog, don’t do anything like this until dog is over12 mths and no very high jumps please until dog is over 18mths. We don’t train our dogs to guard,this comes by itself at various ages,we have also found that the BB can go through various fear stages and you will sometimes despair of your dog,be patient and ignore any fear behaviour,they DO come through it.Remember that all dogs are different in guarding abilities at various stages of their lives.All have to be introduced correctly to all visitors and they are fine with us around,and that is as it should be.I have no reservations that if under a perceived threat these dogs WILL act and you must be aware of this when having children and strangers around,if there is lots of loud screaming in play the dog may react if they feel ‘their’ child is under threat.
SOCIALIZING AND TRAINING:
We have already started socializing and training your puppy for you. The pups have been in the kitchen and utility room to make sure they are used to all manner of noises, including the washing machine.We also bang pots and pans and their dinner dishes so they are used to louder, strange sounds. As part of this socializing we go around stamping our feet and clapping our hands so puppies think of it as a game. We would recommend a de-sensitisation CD if you think your pup will be affected next year with fireworks or at New Year,they are currently listening to a Sounds Sociable CD,either this CD or the radio plays 24 hrs a day for them from the minute they are born. We check pups on a daily basis and keep repeating, ears, eyes and teeth to them as we check them over. When it is feeding time we call them by saying Din,din,dins and it lets them know it is indeed feeding time! You will laugh at their reaction. After feeding we tell them to go pee-pee and they all head off into their various favourite corners and do their business. Also remember to try and learn to read the signs early in your puppy as they are very clean by nature. Always let them out after feeding straight away and as soon as they wake up or stop playing and keep telling them the commands and give very high praise when they perform for you, this makes your life much easier, definitely spoken from experience, our gang’s last command of the night is to ‘go pee pee’!! and they don’t get in until they ’perform’!!
Playtime is very important for your puppy. You decide when playtime starts and finishes NOT the pup,set the rules now and be consistent. Your puppy will tire easily and please remember if you have children-DO NOT let your children pick up the puppy as accidents can happen very quickly. Instead encourage your child to sit on the floor and have the puppy in its lap. Children may get upset as the puppies will go through the usual biting stage as they are teething, don’t let this behaviour from the dog go unpunished, a sharp word or a loud OW! usually works,also a motherly type shake of the neck or nip on the ear works well and then put puppy in the cool down zone, which may be a separate room from where you are sitting. Try not to use the crate(if you are intending using one) as the place for putting the reprimanded puppy as it has to think of that as a safe place ,it’s own wee haven and where it sleeps at night and when you are out. There is no problem in using a crate, please don’t think it is a bad thing, in fact it will keep your puppy from getting into mischief, especially if you have another dog in the house, as puppies can sometimes be quite unforgiving, especially on an older dog.Your puppy will be used to both the hard plastic beds and also an open crate before they leave us.We strongly advise the use of a crate for your puppy.Buy as large a crate as space will allow.
Remember if you have another dog/s that there is a pecking order and your pup has to fit into this. Do not let your puppy dominate the other dogs in the household, it must learn its place in the hierarchy and they do have to sort themselves out to an extent but always keep a watchful eye out for any bullying of your pup by the older dog/s.
Your puppy has already been introduced to a vast array of people,and of course they are very used to the dogs. Pups have also been out in the car, but only once to go to the vets.
Now is the time to start asking all your friends and family to visit so puppy can interact with them all. Start your puppy on puppy classes as soon as you are able to take them out (usually 1 week after the last vacc), take them to ringcraft or obedience classes. There is now an excellent scheme run by the Kennel Club which gives your dog different awards for levels of obedience, called the Good Canine Citizen Scheme, it may pay to phone the Kennel Club or log on to their website for more info.
Don’t bore your dog by overtraining, a few mins everyday will do, remember, this is a breed that wants to please you and be with you so it shouldn’t take a lot of effort.Please,please don’t be too demanding of a young puppy,let them have their puppyhood.
Make sure you pup has plenty of toys, try and set up an activity centre for your dog, especially if it is going to be in a run as, when boredom sets in, so does the chewing! Make life easier for yourself and try and keep your puppy occupied.You may end up with a hyperactive puppy like our Happy was,be patient and don’t force the training issue,we have seen some young dogs almost broken in spirit by over zealous owners,Juicy being the dog in question there (she was returned to us at 16 weeks of age).We always adapt the training needs and methods to each individual,try various methods and use what works for the dog.
WORMINGS - Your pups has been wormed using Drontal at 2, 4 and 6 weeks (and 8,10,12 weeks if applicable).Continue worming every two weeks until the last one at 12 weeks.Thereafter worm every 3 mths.
FLEA AND TICK CONTROL - Your pup has had flea treatment at 6 weeks of age,continue to do this every 3 mths after the puppy is 12 weeks to co-incide with the dogs wormings.Flea treatment goes on one day and then the dog gets wormed the next day,to halt any cycle of fleas laying eggs on the dog.Please note,the treatment we give them lasts 6 mths initially.Always do flea treatment first and follow up 1/2 days later with the worming.
VACCINATION - Your puppy has been vaccinated at 6 weeks with a vet check up too.The vaccine is NOBIVAC,down South (London in particular) some vets seem to think the pup has to have a whole new vaccination course.DON’T DO IT!!!Your puppy only needs one more jab at 10 weeks with the same vaccine or a comparable vaccine,don’t be fooled into falling for the vet trying to get more money out of you.CANIGEN is also compatible with NOBIVAC.Please don’t use any other vaccine for the second jab as your pup may then not be fully covered for the various diseases.
MICROCHIP - Your puppy has been chipped at 6 weeks old,all details are in our name and you shall be given the paperwork so you can transfer into your own name.
REGISTRATION - All puppies registered with BOERBOEL UK and S.A. Studbook.Both parents registered with either SABT,EBBASA,BI and/or BUK.
INSURANCE -We shall send your puppy to it’s new home with 4 weeks insurance from PetPlan.Your paperwork shall come through in approx 14 days and you can then consider what type of insurance you would like for your dog,if any. We recommend an all of life insurance plan with some of the best being PetPlan,Marks and Spencers,Virgin and Sainsbury’s.Please do NOT buy E and L insurance,they are not good,we speak from experience.A reminder of costs if you do not want to insure your puppy or think that you can’t afford it is that it costs us almost £4K to have Roxy fixed after eating a cuddly toy at 2 years old and also it costs upwards of £2,500 for 1 cruciate operation,so,really,can you afford NOT to insure??
Never exercise any dog/s unsupervised,we also advise and urge you to NEVER leave children around ANY dog unsupervised.
REMEMBER- SET THE RULES AND BE CONSISTENT !!!!